Please
note I have referred to the puppy as “he” merely to avoid the
constant confusion of writing he/she.
Bringing your new puppy home is an exciting time but there are steps
that you can take, even at this early age, which will make your life considerably
easier in the future.
If you have a dog cage or puppy crate available it is a good idea to
get your dog to see it as a place of safety and enjoyment. It should never
be used as a punishment and if your puppy goes into the cage to sleep
it should be left undisturbed. A few exciting treats and chew toys kept
in the cage that are not available outside will help ensure your puppy
sees it as a nice place to be.
Having a puppy that is happy in his cage can have a lot of advantages:
If the house becomes busy with children or visitors it will keep the
puppy safe and out from under foot.
You can leave you puppy when you need to go out, safe in the knowledge
that your belongings are safe from tiny teeth and that your puppy is safe
from the dangers that a house can present.
It can also help with housetraining your pup. A dog will try to avoid
soiling the area where he sleeps and so will try not to dirty the crate
if given the opportunity to relieve himself elsewhere.
You need to decide where you would prefer your dog to toilet. As far
as the dog is concerned, until you have trained him to understand your
preferences, any area away from his bed is suitable and he will see nothing
wrong with using your bedroom floor or the area behind the settee.
Bear in mind that you cannot punish a dog after the event. There is little
point in shouting at your dog for soiling in the wrong place if you don’t
catch him in the act. It causes confusion in his mind as to why he is
being punished.
As a general rule puppies tend to go to the toilet immediately on waking
up and after eating or drinking. Rather than trying to be available as
soon as your pup wakes up from a nap, it is easier to waken him after
he has slept for a reasonable amount of time and take him immediately
to the area that you want him to use. Praise enthusiastically when he
performs. It can be a good idea to start using commands for toileting
at this stage. Merely say the word that you have decided to use as the
pup performs the relevant action. In time you will be able to use these
words and your dog will eliminate on command. I used to use Pee for urination
and ‘Get busy’ for defecation. As you can imagine it can be
very useful to tell your dog that he needs to go to the toilet now, especially
when you are in unfamiliar surroundings, before a long car journey or
when time is short. Make sure you (and anyone else who will be working
with your pup) are consistent with your commands otherwise your dog will
get confused. Make sure everyone uses the same words.
Border Collies are intelligent animals and can also be taught to obey
hand signals.
Once your pup has performed in the chosen toilet area DO NOT take him
immediately back indoors, unless the weather is really bad and the puppy
wants to go inside. Play with him for a few minutes, otherwise he will
soon link the fact that going to the toilet means an end to the sniffing
around in the garden and he will be reluctant to relieve himself outside
and put an end to the fun. Much better to teach that the fun happens after
you have performed.
Puppies grow 20 times faster than adult dogs and so have very different
food requirements. They need to be fed a higher protein food and have
small amounts given at frequent intervals to avoid stretching their small
stomachs.
Feed 4 small meals a day up to 4 months old; 3 meals a day from 4 to
6 months, reducing to 2 meals a day at 6 months. It depends on what sort
of regime you intend for your adult dog whether you keep it on 2 meals
a day for the rest of its life or reduce to just 1 meal a day at about
9 months.
Any food not eaten within 20 minutes should be removed. Clean fresh water
should always be available.
Make a point of staying with your puppy sometimes while he eats. Talk
to him, stroke him and even handle the food in his bowl while he is eating.
Occasionally lift the bowl and place a particularly tasty treat in it
before giving it back to the pup. This is a special treat for allowing
you to remove his food. My dogs are quite happy for you to take the bone
out of their mouths, praise them and then give it back. A vital requirement
is to stop your dog getting into the habit of guarding his food especially
important if you have children or grandchildren who are associating with
the dog.
Treats can be given as a training incentive, however, care should be taken
and the ingredients read before purchase. A lot of commercial treats contain
high levels of sugar, colourings and milk products. These should be avoided.
Ordinary chocolate is not good for dogs, if you must give chocolate, only
use those specially formulated for dogs. Grapes are also bad for dogs.
Treats should never account for more than 15% of the dog’s daily
calorie intake.
All treats should be earned!! They are a way of rewarding good behaviour.
They lose their effectiveness if given too freely without being earned.
All training should be done using reward and praise. There is never any
need for harsh treatment and punishment.
It is never too soon to start basic training. What is cute and amusing
in a tiny puppy does not have the same appeal when your dog is adult and
weighs 20kg. Basically, if you don’t want your adult dog to do it,
do not let your puppy do it.
Biting at hands, feet and clothing should be discouraged at this age.
A simple way to do this is to react as another puppy would – make
a loud squealing noise and refuse to play for a few minutes. This quickly
gets the message across that the fun stops if you bite.
Allowing your dog onto beds and furniture. This is purely a personal
choice. Just be aware that a dog has no way of differentiating between
wet/dry and clean/dirty. He will become very confused if he is sometimes
allowed on to the settee, but at other times it is forbidden and wrong.
Get your puppy used to you handling him all over.
Pick up his feet and examine between his toes.
Look into his ears
Look at his teeth
Even examine sensitive areas such as the anal and genital areas.
If your dog grows up accepting this as part of his life, the vet’s
job is made considerably easier. Ask other people to join in and do the
examination and handling for you sometimes.
While your puppy is young and adaptable, expose him to as many new experiences
as you can.
Trips in the car, public transport, markets and busy streets, the countryside,
sheep, chickens, cats, bicycles, pushchairs, noisy children playing, other
dogs and strange people of both sexes and wearing a variety of clothing.
A puppy will easily learn your rules at this age. My dogs learn very
young that other dogs, people and children are fun. That chickens and
cats must not be chased and that a trip in the car means an exciting walk
at the journey’s end.